I open the oven door and pull the lids off my three Staub cocotte pots and breathe a sigh of relief when I see that my breads are going to be perfect tonight. My new business card, when going out to dinner, is a gift of homemade bread both for the restaurant owners as well as for my dining companions. Once the one-hundred percent einkorn boules have cooled, I package them up and kiss my girls goodnight. Heidi, a Norwegian friend, is joining me along with Franco and Marco. We meet Marco and Franco at Scaccia Tappo in Dogliani and then wind our way in the car through Farigliano, along the Tanaro river valley, and then up towards Mondovi before arriving to the small town of Briaglia.

Trattoria Marsupino, opened and operated by the same family since 1901, is a remarkable restaurant due to the dedication of this lovely family. Marisa, the Nonna (grandmother) and reining matriarch of the family greets guests with a warm smile on arrival and overseas payment no matter how late it is when the meal is finished. Pier Vincenzo has helmed the stoves since 1985 while his wife Franca has been spreading her warm smile and charming demeanor to the dining also since 1985. Their two sons, both officially working at the Trattoria since 2007, are making it clear there are many wonderful years ahead. Luca is passionately overseeing the 900 label wine list while Matteo is working hard in the kitchen of this very traditional Piemontese restaurant.

We begin the meal with a delicious aperitivo of Andre Beaufort “Ambonnay Reserve Brut” champagne suggested by Luca. Next we study the menu and then place our order. A pair of amuse bouche arrive before our meal begins, both a study in simplicity and purity of flavor. First there is a small piece of sauce with a cheese fonduta followed by a small tasting serving of the delicious ‘Zuppa di cardi gobbi e toupinambour’ or ‘Soup of Cardoons and Jerusalem arthicokes.’ We are off to a great start. I spot a bottle on the list that I’d like to try, the 2005 Barbera d’Alba from Giacomo Conterno’s famed Cascina Francia vineyard in Serraluna d’Alba. The wine is flabby and one dimensional when first opened but shows more of its compelling characteristics after thirty minutes in the glass.

Plates of steaming hot food arrive and we begin the round robin of trying each plate. First I have the ‘Gnocchi di patate di montagna al Castelmagno dei Des Martin’ or ‘Gnocchi made with mountain grown potatoes and served with Des Martin Castelmagno cheese sauce.’ This is a simple and traditional dish that is expertly prepared by Matteo and Pier Vincenzo. The ‘Ravioli di anatra con zucca gialla e carciofi’ or ‘House made duck ravioli with sauce of pumpkin and topped with fried artichokes’ is well balanced and has no flaws. On the other hand, the ‘Ravioli di ortiche ai porri di Cervere, burro d’alpeggio e salvia’ or ‘House made ravioli with nettles and Cervere leeks and topped with mountain butter and perfume of sage,’ is bursting with flavor. I like it but my dining companions comment that the leeks are too much for them.

I try Franco’s ‘Composta di cardi gobbi di Nizza Monferrato e baccala norvegese scottato!’ or ‘Norwegian cod served on a bed of stewed cardoons from Nizza Monferrato!’ and it is spot on. Our secondis arrive and I quickly suggest we order another bottle of Barolo. This time I send a quick message to Marta Rinaldi asking her if we should try her 2005 or 2006 Giuseppe Rinaldi Brunate. With her suggestion of the 2006 we place our order with Luca and it is hands down spectacular. Sure, it’s way too young to drink this wine but it delivers so much pleasure from the quintessential rose perfume to layers of acidity that go on for over a minute. A true pleasure. With this, I try the ‘Rognone di vitello trifolato con i finferli’ or ‘Veal kidney with chanterelle mushrooms,’ another very traditional dish that is warm and deeply satisfying.

The ‘Piccione arrostito e servito sul crostone con il suo fegato,’ or ‘roasted pigeon served on toasted bread spread with it’s liver,’ is absolutely delicious (except for the sprig of thyme jutting out). But, I’ve already professed that I do not like inedible items on a plate of food that serve only as decoration). The last secondi I try is the ‘Petto d’anatra cotto al forno alle erbe’ or ‘Duck breast roasted with herbs’ is perfectly cooked (but no need for the bay leaf atop the side of polenta cake).

The plate of dessert nibbles is eaten so quickly that I only manage to get a picture with showing the slices of chocolate salami with hazelnuts. New and old friends, mixed with delicious and well-executed food, stunning wine, and most all the warm environment of Trattoria Marsupino makes this a no-brainer stop for anyone wanting to experience the finest of Piedmont’s hospitality and precise, yet homey, food.