Restaurant Review - Trattoria della Posta

Restaurant Review – Trattoria della Posta

I order a second bottle of champagne to share during our aperitivo visit to Le Case della Saracca in Monforte d’Alba on a quiet Tuesday evening in December with Flavia and Marco.  Flavia is staring at the limited menu and then looks over at Marco and says “Vuoi andare a mangiare un piatto da Balin?” 

“Do you want a plate of food here or do you want a plate of food at Trattoria della Posta?” I ask Sara. 

“I don’t know, I’m easy, what does Flavia want?” says Sara.

“I hear Flavia being diplomatic but what I think she means is she would love to go to Trattoria Della Posta and eat frogs legs because it’s one of her favorite places,” I say.

“Um, ok, sure (gulp), I haven’t been there in awhile but I’m happy to go wherever Flavia wants to go since it’s her night off,” says Sara as she turns a pale shade of green.

We finish a bottle of the delicious Pierre Peters cuvee Extra Brut made with 100% chardonnay from a blend of four different Grand Cru vineyard site in the Cote des Blancs region of Champagne, France.  And we’re off to dinner when we actually only intended to meet for a glass of wine.  Such is the life in Piedmont, Italy.

A five-minute drive brings us to the parking area for Trattoria della Posta where we park and meander our way slowly to the entrance of the restaurant while waiting for Flavia and Marco to arrive.  We are greeted with big smiles from the staff and chef/owner Gianfranco Massolino as we enter and are shown to our table next to the warm fireplace glowing with embers.  I have been to this Trattoria on many occasions.  Originally opened in 1875 by Gianfranco’s great-grandfather Sabino Massolino as a place to stop and eat and rest for travelers passing through Monforte d’Alba.  The current location was opened in 2000 to allow for a more elegant dining experience where it has received numerous accolades including a great scene in the 2014 release of the film The Trip to Italy.  We settle into our seats and are presented with the oversized menus that are part of the tradition here.

We are immediately told, with hesitation, that there are in fact only enough frog’s legs for three servings. Sara assures the staff, with a generous laugh, that she will be fine choosing something else from the menu this evening.  Just a few weeks ago I ate here and we shared 6 plates of frog’s legs amidst only 3 diners.  They are that good.  In my experience this is a restaurant that sticks beautifully to the traditions of piemontese cuisine and presents each plate in a simple yet beautiful way using the highest quality local ingredients.  

The frog’s legs are served and they are absolutely the best I’ve ever tasted.  Tiny and delicate, the bones as this as a toothpick, and lightly breaded in ground up grissini (breadsticks) and then gently fried.  The plate is beautifully decorated, and for this plate it actually works that there are many herbs on the plate that are not meant for eating but meant to aromatically enhance the experience.  There is also a tiny bowl of bagna verde for dipping.  Happily they bring us a second plate to divide up and devour.

Next Marco has the ‘Il torcione di fegato grasso d’oca con gelatin al Moscato’ or ‘Duck foie gras with moscato gelatin’ which is expertly prepared.  Flavia has the ‘La piccolo “Bagna Caoda” con verdure’ or ‘Little bowl of Bagna Caoda served with vegetables for dipping.’  The plate is colorful and the dipping sauce a deep and comforting blend of garlic, olive oil, and anchovies.  Sara and I each have the ‘I tajarin al ragu di carne’ or ‘traditional thin egg tagliatelle with meat sauce.’  As always this is absolutely perfect, except for the sprig of thyme that serves only for decoration. 

On previous occasions I have had the ‘Il peperone cotto al forno con crema di tonno, acciughe, uova’ or ‘Roasted pepper with a cream of tuna, anchovies, and egg’ which is divine.  Also, the ovuli mushroom salad is delicious when in season during autumn.  I’ve also had the delicious and filling ‘La cipolla ripiena di toma di Murazzano e Salsiccia di Bra cotto al forno’ or ‘Roasted whole onion stuffed with traditional tuma cheese from Murazzano and veal sausage from Bra.’  The ‘Lo stinco di vitello al vino Barolo’ or ‘veal shank cooked in Barolo wine’ is fall off the bone delicious.

At the end of this meal we have a selection of cookies and nibs of chocolate to finish the meal.  Each and every dish I’ve had here is expertly prepared and is a great example of how Piedmont can mix rustic and traditional recipes in a sophisticated yet comfortable and unpretentious environment.  Highly recommended. 

All Photographs copyright 2015, Clay McLachlan